Monday, March 5, 2012

Hyper Trousers

I'm back and this time with trousers, HYPER trousers. 



Yes these are G-Star Raw Crushed Black Blade Jeans.
I they are perhaps the most remarkable jeans ever.
But this post is about how to get that 11th Doctor cuff, up to 21st century (and beyond) snuff.

First lets look at some of the source material:

As we know 11's style is jeans with boots. In season 5 he was decked out in TOPMAN Dogstooth skinny jeans.
With a new costume designer for season 6 11's costume became bespoke with the exception of the jeans and braces.



Part of fashion for the last two years has been boots, and with boots has come the rolled cuff.
At basic the rolled pant leg should look crumpled and hasty, that's runway fashion, not Time Lord.
11's rolled cuff is very clean and not at all done without care.

But a careful eye will notice that 11's jeans are not simply rolled up with the inside revealed. As you can see from the picture on the left, the roll is clean, no visible inside seams.

How was this accomplished?








And finally:

I took a guess and this picture proves my suspicions. Take a look at 11's leg on the left (it would be his right leg but we're seeing it on camera)

You can see the fairly tight roll, not too bulky, which tells me his pant leg could only be rolled once.

But also take note that some of the jean seems to have fallen down on the left cuff. Normally I would imagine that it would be folded up inside his trouser leg. But, from all the running around it must have dislodged and is revealed. It also shows that the pant leg has been cut.

Onward!

First, I should mention that I took these pictures around noon in bright sunlight with no flash. I think the sun has made them appear more shiny than they are. In normal light these jeans are pitch black.


I hope it is safe to assume that these jeans were at least featured in one episode in S6, Closing Time.
I've taken quite a few photos because these jeans are really quite facinating. They have lots of details and I am at a loss as whether I should alter them to be screen accurate. I would have to remove the back pocket details and the G-STAR logos.
Considering the price, $198.00 I feel it is sacrilege to alter them too much.





Here is a detailed picture of the left back pocket. The pockets are quite low actually.








And Finally a shot of the G-STAR labelling and view of the weave of the jeans.

Right, on to the rolled cuff.

The jeans I ordered had an inseam of 32. I was lucky that I had lots of length to work with and I didn't have to cut off too much. There was no point in just leaving it all on and sticking it up inside the leg, that would just be too bulky and look weird. So I measured and cut off about 2 inches. I will probably trim a bit more off when it's all done.







Then I folded the cuff back inside the leg quite a ways up. This way I would have a nice unblemished cuff that hid the inner seams, just like 11.
















Now with a smooth leg opening I simply rolled the leg up a bit exposing the right side of the jean while hiding the wrong side of the fabric.

And after measuring to the right height to fall when wearing my S6 boots I pinned the new cuff in place.

Now I have a nice clean cuff like 11's.

Note: His cuff is not very tall. It's only about an inch rolled up, and see too how this is not bulky.








Just as a point of reference, this what the cuff would look like if I had simply rolled the trouser leg the ordinary way. As you can see the wrong side of the jean fabric is exposed. In this case it doesn't matter because the color is the same as the outside.

However, you can see the stitching is visible on this rolled leg and not seen in any of the screen captures.












And one final comparison shot. The regular roll is the featured on top and the clean roll can be seen on the bottom. The trick is to get the roll at the right height. Too low and it hides the boot, too high and you look ridiculous.


Good luck, and if you have any questions, shoot me a message -->

Also I should have my Spark Denim jeans in tomorrow with will basically complete my 11th Doctor wardrobe. So you can expect in April a few posts about Steve Ricks S6 Tweed and my own bow tie collection. I'm sure you're all riveted with excitement.

I might also mention here that I will be at the Official Doctor Who Convention in Cardiff later this month. Will I see you there readers?

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